Mama Terano

MAMA TERANO -- Mama Terano gets noisy and crowded, probably just like Millie Terano's Brooklyn kitchen. That's where Robert Bell of Chez Melange fame first learned to cook, so he's named his new restaurant after Millie — his grandmother.

If you haven't been there yet—on the Brickwalk near the Peninsula Promenade—better hurry before the entire Peninsula discovers it. Once the weather warms up, you can enjoy al fresco dining on the patio.

No pizza on the menu; instead, expect to enjoy dishes like Pork Saltimbocca or Black Rooster Pork Belly. Pork bellies might sound like a flaky investment scheme from an old movie, but at Mama Terano's, a pork belly is the most tender and succulent cut of pork imaginable. And like most entrees, it is priced well under $20.

Sunday Suppers are special and cost $25 ($15 for kids). The menu varies, but you will always get antipasti, pasta, salad, a choice of entree and dessert, served family style. Sundays are the only day when reservations are accepted.

Desserts are incredible: layers of gelato, cheesecake, sauces, and sundae-style additions, all flavors carefully chosen to blend perfectly.

Mama Terano's, 815 Deep Valley Dr., Rolling Hills Estates. 310-377-5757. Open 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sunday. Closed Mondays. Entrees $13-$15.